In planning the second part of our visit, there were two opinions. As we had just one week, Shumita felt we should limit it to one place and see it in detail whereas I thought we should cover 3-4 cities including Rome as this was the first trip to Italy for Shumita and the boys. Both Ruchir and Shumita thoight Rome was too far and so we settled on two, Florence and Milan. Also, I was for train travel but the others said that as there were five of us with baggage, we should rent a car for the long road journeys.
So off we went at noon on 8 June hitting the road to Florence. In about 2 1/2 hours, we reached Modena, birthplace of Ferrari and home to its Formula One racing team. We made our way to the Enzo Ferrari Museum (Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari) and had our hearts racing just looking at the various models of the super racing cars from the rare ones of 1950s to Michael Schumacher's and more recent ones. There were a few Alfa Romeo and Maserati cars on display too and a video presentation depicting the life of the great Enzo Ferrari. A second part of the museum is the former house and workshop of Enzo's father which takes one back to the history of Ferrari's origins.
While leaving Modena, Shumita told me something I didn't know; my favourite singer of Neapolitan and opera songs, Luciano Pavarotti, was born here. After spending a lifetime entertaining audiences all over the world with his brilliant and powerful singing, he went back to Modena to rest in peace beneath the green, green grass of home.
We got back on the road to Florence or Firenze as the Italians call it, arriving there at about 6 pm. We checked in our hotel which was ideally located in the heart of the city, just a short walk from most of the famous sites, and settled down for our stay.
The next two days we followed the true tourist itenerary visiting one landmark after the other beginning with the Cathedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore commonly known as the Duomo which with ts huge dome symbolises Florence just as Hawa Mahal represents Jaipur. Inside is the most famous feature of the church, the enormous octagonal cupola built by Brunelleschi. Historical frescoes and stained glass windows glorify the church which is one of the most well-known in the world.
Incidentally, I always thought 'duomo' meant 'dome' but learnt that it is actually an Italian term for a church.
After the Duomo, Akhila and I rested while Shumita and the boys climbed the 414 steps to the top of Campanile, the tower alongside the Duomo, to get a magnificent view of Florence.
Next we visited the Galleria dell'Accademia which is home to the famously infamous 17-foot sculpture of David. Onwards to the Uffizi Gallery to see Botticelli's Birth of Venus, Leonardo da Vinci's Anunciation, Michelangelo's Holy Family and many other paintings of Titian, Lippi, Raphael and Caravaggio.
We then entered the Vasari corridor, a private passageway of the Medici family built in the 16th century. It links the Uffizi Gallery with Palazzo Pitti, the palace of the Medicis, via the top of the historic bridge, Ponte Vecchio. The Second World War saw the destruction of all old bridges over the Arno River but remarkably, Ponte Vecchio was left untouched. The bridge is now one of the landmarks of Florence with shops on both sides known particularly for selling exquisite jewellery.
Palazzo Pitti was closed for renovation but we did visit Giardino di Boboli, the pretty garden above the palace, which has many classic sculptures, fountains and breathtaking vistas.
On the evening of 9 June, following the recommendation of a friend of Shumita's, we went to Piazzale Michelangelo, a square on a hill just south of the city centre, which provides an excellent panoramic view of Florence. A replica of David's statue stands near the edge of the hill where there was a big crowd of tourists waiting to watch the sun go down over Ponte Vecchio and beyond the Arno river. Coincidentally, it was the evening just one before full moon, so as we watched the sun set in the west, the moon rose directly opposite in the east. A brilliant sight!
On 11 June, we hired a car to go an extensive road trip starting with Pisa. A drive of just over an hour and we stood looking at the amazing Leaning Tower, one of the seven wonders of the world, with people taking photographs either pretending to push or support the Tower. Once again, Shumita and the boys climbed up the Tower while Akhila and I sipped our Cappuccino at one of the many cafes in Piazza del Miracoli by the side of the Tower. A quick look inside the ancient Cathedral next to the Tower and we resumed our journey.
We headed to Siena, two hours away from Pisa. This drive in Tuscany is considered to be one of the most scenic in Italy. It joins the road from Florence to Siena which is known as 'Chiantigiana' after the famous red wine, Chianti. Majestic cypress trees, lush vineyards, huge wheat farms and bright yellow flowers (ginestra) on slopes of rolling hills provide stunning views all along.
The Gothic town city of Siena has a walled centre with medieval brick buildings and dark lanes. Its 13th century Duomo is one of the prettiest churches I have seen. The entire floor is covered with inlaid marble mosaic and the church houses a plethora of works of the best Italian sculptors of that era including Michelangelo and Donatello. Besides, it has frescoes, stained glass windows and a hexagonal dome topped with Bernini's gilded lantern like a golden sun. A unique feature is the Piccolomini Library inside the church featuring a cycle of frescoes illustrating ten episodes from the life of Pope Pius II. There was a large collection of ancient, holy tomes of huge sizes with big, bold and colourful typefaces dating back to the 15th century.
The other landmark we visited was the Piazza del Campo where a prestigious horse race takes place twice a year. As usual, the Piazza had many cafes and a gelataria claiming to be the best in the world for its mouth-watering gelatos in which we indulged.
Reversing course towards Florence, we came to another small and cute hill town of San Gimignano known for its 14 towers of varying heights. No cars are allowed inside the town, so while Shumita and the boys climbed up the road to see whatever sites they could, Akhila and I ambled up to Piazza del Duomo to sip our Cappuccino. On our walk down with wine shops on both sides, I could not resist the temptation to buy some local wine and settled for the glorious red Chianti.
By now the sun was going down and tired but happy, we made our way back to Florence. Our driver was a sweet lady who kept up a nice commentary describing the countryside and the places we were passing by. Additionally, we had music going on with "Grande, Grande, Grande" and "Il Mondo" on my request followed by Shumita appropriately playing Andrea Bocelli who was born in the village of La Sterza in Tuscany, about 40 kms. south of Pisa. Our driver told us that on his birthday on 22 September (all good people are Virgoans!), he holds a free concert and party in his village. Tempted to join the fun?
A dinner at a restaurant in the busy Piazza della Repubblica with a colourful carousel in the centre marked our final evening in Florence and the next morning we were on the road to Milan.
Looking at the road map, I had seen that only a small diversion was required to include Verona in our itinerary and Verona as everyone knows was the setting of Shakespeare's love story of Romeo and Juliet. So we took the detour and arrived at Verona by lunchtime. Again, the city allows no cars inside so we were dropped at Piazza Bra, the city's largest square. A quick lunch and we walked to the Roman amphitheater, the Arena, which was built around 30 AD and is the third largest in Italy after Rome's Colosseum and the Amphitheatre of Capua.
After a quick look at the Arena which was under renovation, we entered the narrow lanes of the city and made our way to Via Cappello for Casa de Giulietta, the house of Juliet. An archway leads to a small courtyard with a lifesize bronze statue of Juliet. On the right stands the house with the famous balcony where much of Shakespeare's drama is played out.
Hardcore realists will say 'Romeo and Juliet' is a work of fiction and there was no family such as the Capulets. Tell that to the hundreds of romantics who throng to Verona every day just to see Juliet's statue, house and the balcony. This is the house of Juliet, this is the balcony from where the love of Juliet and Romeo blossomed, this is the balcony which Romeo climbed to be with Juliet. And the statue- it is believed that rubbing Juliet's right breast is a charm for love and fertility. So young lovers, may that work for you and may your love bloom and grow forever!
On to Milan.
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