BHUTAN - DRUKYUL

 Bing Crosby sang, "Those far away places with strange sounding names...are calling, calling me".

A place, not far away albeit with strange sounding names, had been calling me for quite some time: Bhutan or Drukyul as the Bhutanese call it. Druk means 'thunder dragon' and Yul means 'country', so it is the country of the thunder dragon. Strange because its people are so peaceful and content! It is just two hours' flight away from Delhi; it takes longer to get to, say, Kochi. A visit was always at the back of my mind but somehow, never materialised. 

At our Course lunch in March this year, some of us were chatting away when I aired my thoughts about wanting to visit Bhutan. General Ved Malik, former Army Chief, immediately offered to help out in organising with the support of the Indian Military Training Team (IMTRAT) based there. He asked me to make air bookings and give him the dates.

So I booked seats for Akhila and myself departing Delhi on the 18th and returning on 23rd April and informed Ved. Thereafter, officers from IMTRAT got in touch with me and finalised our programme.

The only direct flight to Paro, international airport of Bhutan, is by Drukair, Bhutanese National Airline, leaving Delhi at 4.10 in the morning. A night of no sleep, but the flight is worth the sacrifice as it skirts the Himalayan range at close quarters. Weather was clear and we saw one snow-capped peak after another including Mount Everest and Kanchenjunga. 

Paro airport is nestled between mountain ranges named Three Brothers and the pilot announced that the visibility was low and not safe for landing. We circled the airport for about an hour when the pilot announced that he was now low on fuel and would attempt to land before it got worse. So he banked to the left and flew tilted for some distance before levelling out just before landing with a thud and applying brakes to the full. I was reminded of a landing on an aircraft carrier and it was quite an experience but apparently, business as usual. I learnt later that pilots have to be specially certified to land at Paro airport.

We were met by the IMTRAT personnel and after a quick immigration process, proceeded to the Mess overlooking the airport and Paro chhu (river) flowing beside it. Over the next two days, we were to get many close views of aircraft taking off and landing at the airport.

In the afternoon, we drove to Paro market for shopping and coffee at the popular Mountain Cafe. Immediately, we were struck by the exemplary discipline of the people of Bhutan. There was total silence on the roads and over the next five days, we didn't hear a car horn even once. There were no traffic lights or policemen in sight. The driver would keep his eyes wide open for pedestrians and if he saw anyone intending to cross the road, he would stop and wave at the individual to carry on. No one seemed to be in a rush and there were smiles and courteous bows all around.

The local men are always in the national dress of Gho and Kera. Gho is a knee-length cloth tied at the waist with Kera which is a woven cloth belt. Women wear an apron like long ankle-length dress called Kira. Bright colours, intricate patterns and embroideries add to the charm and grace of the ladies. People are proud of the national dress and I don't remember seeing any local wearing anything else like shirt and trousers.

Another striking feature is the construction of the buildings. Wood is the main material and traditionally, no nails or iron bars are used. The sloping roofs are brightly coloured, similar for a particular cluster of buildings. Multiple small windows with spiritual paintings from one end to the other adorn the exterior walls.

All these factors along with courtesy, smile and pride contribute towards making Bhutan a happy country and, according to many, the happiest in the world. In 1972, the 4th King of Bhutan coined a term 'Gross National Happiness' (GNH) and declared it more important than Gross Domestic Product. The main domains of GNH are Psychological Wellbeing, Health and Good Governance. By these measures, Bhutan ranks on top of the world and many countries have been known to seek its counsel on how to achieve 'happiness'.

Back to sightseeing, I must confess that we gave perhaps the most famous site of Paro, Taktsang Dzong or Tiger's Nest Monastery built in 1692, a miss. Too much climbing and not recommended for old folks! So we were content glimpsing it from a distance. 'Dzong' means a fortress-monastery which due to its high location and architecture served as a stronghold against enemies in the past. Presently, most Dzongs play a combined role as monasteries and administrative offices. We were able to visit Paro Dzong, a high point of Bhutanese architecture, as it is more accessible located comfortably below Taktsang. At night, the building is brilliantly lit and is visible all over Paro.

Ta Dzong built as a watchtower in 1649 was next. It now houses the National Museum including displays of famous Bhutanese masks and natural wild life of the country.

Drukgyel Dzong, a half hour drive from Paro, is another monument on a height. Again, it is difficult to climb but we could go fairly close up to its steps where there is a small hutment housing a giant prayer wheel with 'mantras' written on it. The wheels called 'Lakhor' are an integral feature of Buddhist temples and are meant to be rotated by hand which as you know is one of the traditional ways of praying in Buddhism. 

Devotees also carry small hand-held wheels named 'Mani' while walking around Buddhist relics or temples and on long journeys.

Our Paro sightseeing was completed with a visit to Kyichu Lhakhang, one of Bhutan's oldest and most beautiful temples. 'Lhakhang' means 'the house of gods' and Bhutan boasts of more than a thousand of them, one for almost every village and mountain top. The one at Kyichu dates back to the 7th century with additions over the years, the last one a golden roof in 1839. Apart from idols and Lakhors, temples display multi-coloured prayer flags, blue for sky and space, red for fire, green for water, yellow for earth and white for air. 

White flags on clusters of tall poles can frequently be seen in open spaces as it is believed that their fluttering by the wind spreads blessings and happiness all over the countryside.

On 20th morning, we took the road from Paro to Thimphu, a distance of 50 kms and about an hour's drive. The road is good but narrow and typically mountainous with hairpin bends and steep slopes. An artistic wooden gate heralds the entry to Thimphu, capital of Bhutan. We proceeded to the IMTRAT Mess situated in the centre of town.

That evening we visited the famous Buddha Point which has one of the largest Buddha statues in the world measuring 51.5 metres in height. Installed on top of one of the highest mountain ranges around Thimphu, it overlooks the city with the sitting Buddha in golden bronze benevolently seeming to convey his blessings of peace and happiness to all. 

The view from Buddha Point is fascinating as one can see the whole city, the river Thimphu chhu and the extensive valley. The statue is hollow and one can enter it. The inside holds 125000 miniature Buddhas 8 to 12 inches tall. As someone commented, the Buddhas far outnumber the 100,000 residents of Thimphu!

Our driver then took us to Devi Panchayan Mandir close to Buddha Point. It is the only public Hindu temple in Thimphu and is a fairly recent gift from the Bhutan King to the Hindu community.

The next day we embarked on a long trip to Punakha about 85 kms away. Our first stop was Dochu La pass, the highest point at 3100 metres. The view from there is supposed to be exceptional but as happens with these heights, there was fog and mist obscuring the view. There is also a Dzong there but difficult to climb, so wiser counsels prevailed. But there is a beautiful cafe just below the Dzong where we had a welcome cup of coffee. On the other side of the road, is a Memorial with 108 Chorten (Buddhist shrine) stupas built by the Queen Mother to honour the Bhutanese soldiers who were killed fighting rebels in 2003. 

We resumed our journey down the long and winding road to Punakha and its Dzong which is located at the confluence of two rivers, Mo and Po, which then merge to form the Punakha chhu. The Dzong is accessible from two sides, a road or an ancient wooden bridge, and we chose the latter. Punakha Dzong is an imposing citadel and one of the oldest built in 1637. It has had its share of fires and earthquakes the latest being a quake in 1897. Rebuilt, it looks strong and pretty. Punakha was the capital of Bhutan till 1955 when the seat of government moved to Thimphu. After a good look at the Dzong, we were on the road back to Thimphu enjoying the scenic drive.

On our final day in Thimphu, we started off with a visit to the oldest Dzong which has survived in its original form in Bhutan, Simtokha. It was built in 1629 and is just 5 kms from Thimphu. Located on a prominent ridge, we had been sighting it frequently on the road to Paro and Punakha. It is now home to the Dzongkha Language Learning Institute.

Closer to the city, we saw the Tashichho Dzong originally built in 1641 but vastly redesigned in 1965 as the Main Secratariat building and the Throne Room of the King. Next on our list was Changangkha Lhakhang, a 12th century fortress like temple where the priest asks you to throw a pair of dice and nods in approval when you do but does not tell what your numbers signify! We then went to the Takin Zoo, home to Takin, the national animal which has the body of an antelope and a goat's head. Our final stop was the National Memorial Chorten built in 1974 to honour the third King, as a monument of peace and prosperity. The stupa with a high pyramidal pillar crowned by a crescent moon and sun is brilliantly lit at night and visible at long distances.

A good night's sleep and we headed back to Paro airport to catch our flight back to Delhi. As Akhila had the window seat on the flight to Paro, I claimed it this time to get a ringside view of the Himalayas but the aircraft took an inner route and my effort went in vain.

And guess what was the first sound we heard on getting out of the Delhi airport- shrieking car horns!

It was an unforgettable visit and Akhila and I will always cherish its memories. Our sincere thanks to the IMTRAT team of Lt Col Dharmendra Yadav, Major Ankit Agarwal and Subedar Vikram Singh Negi for organising and guiding us to see the beautiful country. And, of course, how can we ever thank enough Ved, the General, the driving force behind this wonderful trip which was like bringing heaven on earth.

Tailpiece: On our return to Delhi, we were going through the immigration process with a middle-aged official. I have always found these people to be very officious and curt and was expecting the same treatment with the guy mumbling something which, with my hard hearing, I was unable to understand. Finally, I figured he was saying 38-38 and I guessed he was talking about my year of birth. I nodded and said, yes, it is 1938. He stamped my passport, extended it to me and as I was leaving the counter, said, "Sir, any advice for young people?" I was stumped by the question but somehow the words that tumbled out of my mouth were, "Keep faith in God...Stay happy!”

Bhutan effect?

OF ADMIRALS AND AN AIR MARSHAL

 

On the date of my permanent commission, 01 January 1960, the Indian Navy was a small service. The head of the Navy, Chief of the Naval Staff (CNS), held the rank of a Vice Admiral. There were just 5 Rear Admirals, Deputy Chief of the Naval Staff, Flag Officer Commanding Indian Fleet, Flag Officer Bombay, Comptroller General Ordnance Factories and, because it was the Navy’s turn in the rotational inter-service appointment, Commandant National Defence Academy.

Navy got its second Vice Admiral for two years in 1964 thanks again to the rotational requirement for the Commandant National Defence College (NDC). The service had to wait till 1967 to get a full Admiral after which the door was opened for further promotions. While the pyramid structure of the Navy permits only one full Admiral, it now has around 25 Vice Admirals and 60 Rear Admirals. 

The increase in the number of Admirals is, of course, justified due to the significant expansion of the Navy in men and material. But the larger the number, the less the rarity.

In 1960s, it was great to be promoted to the rank of Commander and earn a brass hat which is the addition of golden braid on the peak of the cap. That was the first step towards achieving greater laurels. With promotion to Rear Admiral, the braid is doubled to invite enhanced respect and reverence. The brass hat seems to have lost its unique status now not only because of large numbers but with all kinds of security personnel wearing it as part of their uniform. Pity!

In 1965, when Vice Admiral AK Chatterji, then Commandant NDC, picked me up as his Flag Lieutenant or ADC, I felt highly elated to get a chance to be so close to a person with the same rank as the CNS. Admiral Chatterji went on to become the CNS and the first full Admiral in the Indian Navy. I regard him as the most intelligent Admiral ever. With his sharp foresight, he laid down plans for the modern Navy as early as late 1950s when he was Director Naval Plans in the NHQ. It is often forgotten that he was responsible for the acquisition of the missile boats which were so effectively deployed in the '71 war by his follower, Admiral Nanda. Indeed, the missile boats were known in the Indian Navy as AK boats after the initials of Admiral Chatterji.

I had the privilege of being close to some other senior Admirals. Rear Admiral SH Sarma was appointed Flag Officer Commanding Eastern Fleet just before the 1971 war and I was on his operational staff during  the war. He led the Eastern Fleet boldly and capably in all operations during the war but was so unassuming that he was given less credit than he deserved.

Rear Admiral Ronnie Pereira succeeded him and I served on his staff for about eight months. He, as everyone knows, rose to the highest office in the Navy. I have written a post about him earlier and regard him as a naval icon.

Then there was Vice Admiral Russi Ghandhi who I came to know more after retirement than before. According to me, he shared the iconic personality status with Admiral Pereira.

Among all the senior officers that I knew and admired was an Air Marshal. I had taken over as Admiral Chatterji's Flag Lt in May 1965. In January 1966, it was announced that Admiral Chatterji would take over as CNS in March that year and as he wished to proceed on some leave, Air Vice Marshal R Rajaram, then Air Officer Commanding-in-Chief Western Air Command (AOC-in-C WAC), was appointed Commandant NDC in mid-January on promotion to Air Marshal (AM). 

By then, I had received orders to go for a specialisation course in Communications in Signal School, Cochin, mid-66. Admiral Chatterji had to look for a new Flag Lt and AM Rajaram would bring his own aide. I requested that since it was a matter of just a couple of months, could I remain in the NDC till my course commenced? Admiral Chatterji discussed this with AM Rajaram who graciously agreed with his aide remaining on the books of WAC.

That continued for a month or so when further communication was received from NHQ that my course was postponed by a year. I met the AM and told him that I was ready to go back to the Navy. To my surprise, he asked me to continue as his Flag Lt and sent the Air Force aide back to WAC. I held that appointment for about a year before AM Rajaram moved to the Air HQ as Vice Chief of the Air Staff (VCAS).

AM Rajaram and his wife, Lakshmi, were simple, unpretentious people with no unusual demands. One did one's work and that was that. I felt not like just an aide but more like a companion. The AM always kept me next to him and it was fun going on private functions with the Rajarams in the AM's cute Volkswagen Beetle which he would drive himself.

The Rajarams were a lonely couple - they had no children. Perhaps that was the reason why they treated me like a son. After they got to know me a bit, the AM asked me if I could come over on a Sunday morning with some pending files to his 6 King George's Avenue residence. I told him there was nothing that couldn't wait but he said come anyway. So I picked up a few papers and went over. We sat on the sprawling lawn and attended to the official work which took all of 5-10 minutes. He then asked me to go inside and pick up a bottle of beer from the fridge and two glasses. After a while, Mrs Rajaram called us in for lunch and the three of us sat down for a typical vegetarian South Indian meal. That became a normal Sunday routine whenever the Rajarams were free and in Delhi.

The AM had a fine sense of humour and used to recount his experiences in a lighthearted way including the air operations overseen by him as AOC-in-C WAC during the '65 war. In my entire tenure, I never saw him and Mrs Rajaram lose their cool or even raise their voices.

Too soon, it all came to an end with the Air Marshal's move as VCAS. Shortly after, I went back to the Navy and was busy with my own work. On opening the newspaper one morning in June 1969, I was shocked to read of the Air Marshal's passing away; he was just 51 years old. On inquiring from my Air Force friends, I learnt that he was suddenly diagnosed with leukemia. While the Air Force did all it could for his treatment including sending him to Paris, his condition deteriorated rapidly leading to his end on 18 June 1969.

For some time following the AM's demise, Mrs Rajaram continued to stay in Delhi. Akhila and I visited her shortly after our marriage in March 1972. In time, we were to lose touch.

At the NDC, Lt Gen MM Khanna took over as the Commandant from the Air Marshal in December 1966. He asked me to continue as his aide but I told him that much as I would have liked to, it was time to for me to go back before the Navy forgot about me and vice versa. It took about a month to get a relief for me from the Army during which time I remained with him.

So I served as Flag Lt to a Vice Admiral, an Air Marshal and a Lt General. Is that some kind of a record because I am not aware of anyone who has matched that!

Tailpiece: When I was Director Naval Signals in NHQ, I was visited by a retired Rear Admiral who left his visiting card with me. His rank was printed as 'Rare Admiral.' They were indeed 'rare' in his serving days!